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Step 6: “Do these pants make my ass look big?” (Testing placement and size of the new intake):
Items needed in this step:
Main pipe
“Downpipe”
All elbows
Filter assembly
Rubber nipple assembly

This is the testing part to see if everything you made fits properly. Take the time to install the components and sections in the engine bay, and be sure to eyeball everything.

1. The rubber nipple assembly attaches to the throttle body.
2. The main pipe connects to the rubber nipple assembly, and runs towards the front of the car.
3. The 90° long bend (female/female) connector (item #3) connects to the main pipe, and runs downward aimed towards the ground.
4. The “downpipe” connects to the 90° long turn (female/female) elbow (item #3).
5. The filter assembly connects to the “downpipe,” and the filter end points towards the front-left corner of the car (see picture below). Check if you can slide the filter assembly between the radiator fan, battery, and transmission. If you can, that’s great. If you can’t, we’ll have to do it the different way. I have my doubts you will not be able to.

If you have to, re-cut and re-measure the piping. By now, I hope you understand what the intake is supposed to look like. It should run towards the front of the car, and then turn downward towards the ground, and then the filter should point towards the front-left corner of car.
This is the most important step. You need to memorize how the intake will sit inside the engine bay. Use a permanent marker to make markings on the intake. So when you are assembling the intake, all you have to do is match up the markings. You should have a minimum of 8 markings on the intake.

Step 7.1: “What the hell is an ‘air temperature sensor’?” (Making the hole for the air temperature sensor):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill

You need to make a hole in your main pipe to accompany the air temperature sensor. The hole needs to be large enough so the rubber grommet you saved from the old air box will fit. The hole should be made 3-4 in. from one end of the main pipe and approx. ½ in. in diameter. The end with the hole will be closer to the driver/intake manifold/throttle body and away from the front of the car. Also, the hole should be facing the left side of the car away from the engine.

Step 7.2 (optional): "Henry, I'm going to hydrolock with your intake design!" (Making the a hole for a breather filter to serve as a bypass valve):
Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel OR
· Drill

This is for those of you who live in very wet conditions and would like to install an inexpensive bypass valve. Due to the position of the intake, the filter is prone to suck up water in deep puddles. It is best to avoid deep puddles, but in case it is impossible to do so, installing a bypass valve can lessen the effect of hydrolock. The bypass valve is basically a breather filter. This is only a theory and has not been fully tested. The theory behind the idea is simple: when the intake filter is immersed in water, there is a change in pressure, and the air will be sucked through the breather filter instead of the main intake filter. Water is denser than air. If there was no bypass valve, the water would go straight into the engine. With a breather filter, the water is too heavy and air will enter the breather filter.
Drill a hole in the main pipe a few inches away from the air temperature sensor hole (see picture below). Make the hole penny-sized. Install the breather filter after painting.

Step 8: “Michelangelo, eat your heart out.” (Putting the intake together and painting it):
Items needed in this step:
· Dupli-Color Engine paint (item #8)
· PVC cement (item #5)
· Intake parts

This is the longest step because you have to wait for the paint and glue to dry. If you don’t have time to wait, then you might as well start putting everything back together now. At least you’ll know that everything will fit, and that is the most important aspect of this intake: IT NEEDS TO FIT. Make sure again and again you can fit the fully assembled intake inside the bay and that it will go in easily.
Remove the filter from the filter assembly elbow. You don’t need to damage or paint the filter. Make sure all the intake parts are clean and free of PVC dust.
When using PVC cement, please read the precaution on the container. PVC cement is harmful to your health when inhaled. Use it in a well-ventilated area.
Starting with the rubber nipple assembly, apply a thin layer of PVC cement to the inside of the PVC bend female connector. Shove the end of the main pipe with the hole for the temperature sensor into the female connectors. Match up the markings. Be sure to shove it in there real good. Use a rubber mallet if you have to. Next, take the long bend elbow (item #3), and apply a thin layer of PVC cement inside the female flange. Make sure you know which female flange goes downward and which one faces the driver. Apply another thin layer of PVC cement to the other end of the female flange, and shove the “downpipe” inside. Match up the markings, as well. Be sure that they are secure and are shoved in as much as possible. Finally, apply the last layer of PVC cement inside the female end of the filter elbow (currently w/ no filter on it), and shove the female flange onto the “downpipe.” Match up the markings.
All the connections should be secure and all the markings should match up. Allow the glue to set and cure.
Painting the intake takes a lot of your time, but it is relatively simple. You have the option of painting the rubber nipple, like I did, but the paint does not stick well to the rubber. It takes a long time for the paint to dry on the rubber. If you don’t want to paint the nipple, remove it for now, and then put it back on. Apply numerous coats until you don’t see any white and/or any of the markings made with the permanent marker. It needs to be thick enough to shield out the heat. Don’t paint the rubber grommet that holds the air temperature sensor; it’s pointless. And please don’t paint it with the filter on.
Let the paint dry for a few hours or until it is dry to the touch.

Step 9: “Oh my God! Am I done yet?” (Finishing up):
Items need in this step:
· Your completed intake
· K&N filter (item #7)
· The rubber grommet from the old air box

You’re almost done. Make sure the intake is clean on the inside. You don’t want any PVC dust inside the engine. Put the filter back on, and tighten the clamp. Put the rubber grommet in the hole you drilled in the main pipe. If you removed the rubber plumbing nipple, put it back on as well, and tighten the clamp. Install the intake. Hopefully, all your testing paid off. It should by all means fit with simplicity. The rubber nipple should go onto the throttle body with ease (don’t forget to loosen the clamp before doing so); the hole for the air temperature sensor should be facing away from the engine; the intake should go towards the car, skim the fuse box, then make a turn going downwards, and then point towards the front-left corner of the car; and the filter should touch the bottom plastic panel or hover above it.
Put your battery tray and battery back in. If possible, put the fuse box where it is supposed to rest: bolted onto the battery tie-down. Otherwise, position it where the old air box used to be. Tighten the clamp on the rubber nipple that attaches itself to the throttle body. Insert the air temperature sensor inside the hole you made.

Well, guess what? You’re done… or you’re supposed to be done. The intake should’ve cost under $92. Now, if you think this isn’t worth your money, throw away your hard work, and go buy yourself a $210 intake that you didn’t make. I’ve had many people ask me about my intake on the Internet and at autocrosses. I am proud of my intake. I hope you are proud of your intake, too.

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