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Step 3: “This is where shop class is going to pay off.” (Cutting and sizing):
Items needed in this step:
· 2-inch diameter PVC piping (item #1)
· PVC saw (item #6)

Tools needed in this step:
· Dremel

NOTE: If you have a Dremel tool, you may use that. A PVC saw will cut the piping more evenly. A hacksaw will can be used for the job as well. Just use anything that will cut PVC piping.

PRECAUTION: Please use safety goggles. There will be a lot of PVC dust when using a Dremel. If you must, use a mask.
The intake consists of two piping sections: the main pipe (the pipe which runs front to back) and the “downpipe” (the pipe which runs up and down). The main pipe is 13¾ in. in length (±0.1 inches). The “downpipe” is 6¾ in. in length (±0.1 inches).

Measurements:
Main pipe: 13¾ in. (± 0.1 inches)
Downpipe: 6¾ in. (± 0.1 inches)

You are allowed plus or minus 0.1 inches error, hence, ±0.1 inches. This is not a must; it is a guideline. Sand the edges to remove any nicks and excess PVC strings. You want them smoothed out and not rough.
When you are done making the two pipes, wash them. Remove any PVC dust from the inside with a towel. Then, set them aside for later. You will need to drill a hole in the main pipe a few steps down.

Step 4: “To my old intake: We had some great times together. It was nice knowing you.” (Removing the factory intake):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· 10mm head

NOTE: Do not destroy the stock intake. You may need it in the future.

Locate the clamp near the throttle body holding the intake hose in place. Loosen that screw. On the air box, there are four clamps holding the filter housing in place. Unclamp the four clamps. Remove the filter out of the box. You will find three bolts holding the bottom of the air box in place. Unscrew and remove those bolts. You can now remove the air box and intake hose. Jiggle it out if you have to. There will be one part of the intake left. It is the tube that gathers cool air from the front (technically, the stock intake is a cool air intake but it has small piping; we’re just upgrading). Remove this later when you remove the battery and coolant tank in the next step.

IMPORTANT: There is a rubber grommet holding the air temperature sensor in place. It is located on the top part of the air box. You will need this rubber grommet. Please save it, and do not destroy the air temperature sensor when removing the old intake.

Step 5: “Henry, the intake won’t fit.” (Removing stuff to get the intake in):
Tools needed in this step:
· Ratchet
· Socket heads

I knew the intake I designed would never fit into my car the way everything was set up. So, I had to remove the bottom panel of my car to get the intake assembly in. Fortunately, I found a better way. By removing the battery, battery tray, and coolant overflow tank, you can get the intake in easier without having to work under the car. The fuse box will have to be moved and relocated temporarily. Since I never removed my battery before, I can’t write a detailed explanation how to do so. But the procedure is very simple. Read a Haynes or a Chilton’s manual if you have to.
Keep in mind when you fit the intake that you do not run the intake in the space where the battery and coolant tank occupy. The intake should run right next to the fuse box. You want the filter to sit beneath the battery and coolant tank.
Also, you can remove the intake tube that was mentioned in the previous step.
I realized that there is a metal piece welded to the frame under the battery tray. Therefore, if the filter is too big to fit through the void, then it must be inserted from under the car. That means having to remove the bottom plastic panel. There are only a few bolts that have to be removed to flex it open and fit the filter through; the entire panel does not have to come off.

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