I HAD decided to use the struts that came with the rear assembly so I won't have to modify the hose mounts on the side of the strut. But when I went to the alignment rack I found the angle on the end of the strut is different and made way too much positive camber. So use the same style struts that came in your car. I just robbed the brake hose hanger off the struts and disposed of the rest. You will have to modify the hose carrier but should be simple. I would recommend cutting the hanger off of the strut at the junkyard or you will have to fabricate some kind of stabilizer later. I ran the line through the ring hanger for the drum line and made sure that the metal part of the hose was through the hole (so the rubber line doesn't cut itself), then put the little piece of line holder from the junkyard behind the holder on the strut and bolted the line down sandwiching the fixed metal drum line holder in the middle. Now before we get too far ahead of ourselves with plumbing the lines, lets pull the drum assembly out. There is one 19 mm bolt that is about 15 inches long that runs through the knuckle and holds the 2 stabilizer arms on. The rear arm happens to be the alignment toe end adjustor. Remove the nut and use a wrench to get the bolt to start turning. You may have to use a hammer and hit the end of the bolt to back it out. This is where rust penetrate comes in handy. Once it starts moving you will have to remove the 17 mm bolt that holds the trailing arm just below the knuckle. Then you can remove the long stabilizer bolt. If you remove the trailing arm bolt first the assembly will wobble all over the place and be real hard to get the long bolt out. Loosen the brake line from the hose on the frame. Pop the horseshoe clip out and drop the line. Plug the end of the line with a rubber cap. Now remove two 19 mm bolts that fasten the knuckle to the strut. Slide them out and the drum assembly will fall right out.

drum system removed	disc brake just set in place

Now it's time for the last modification. The disc brake hose is a little larger diameter than the drum line, so you will have to file the hole out a little bit to fit the new line in and be able to secure it. BE CAREFUL when filing it and keep the shape of the hole the same. If you round out the hole into a circle it will make it hard to tighten the line later.

Now set the disc brake knuckle into place and put the two 19 mm bolts through the strut and knuckle. Put a little grease on the stabilizer bolt and run it through the arms and knuckle. Last put the trailing link bolt back in place and then lock it all down.

Plumb the brake hose into place and tighten the line. Run the emergency brake cables up into place making sure to cross the cables at the hand brake mount. This keeps them from binding. Install the drilled out bracket and then adjust up the parking brake shoes. If you adjust them up on the bench while cleaning everything they may be too tight when installed. Bleed the brakes, reinstall the wheels and try it out. Make a quick trip to the alignment shop and you are done. Refit time took me four hours including drilling and fitting. Not counting the tie rod modification.

Next: Tie Rod Modification