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Step Eight: Cut Support

There is a small painted support that your high beam headlight used to be attached to. Well, it will be in the way of your filter, so it’s gotta come out. There are 3 or so 10mm bolts that hold it on. I took mine off and used a circular saw to cut just a few inches of it off. You still need it for your low beam lamps. And you don’t have to take the support off, get a jigsaw or something and cut it.

Step Nine: Relocate Overflow Tank

This is where that fuel hose comes in. You will have to relocate your radiator overflow tank in order for your intake to pass by it. It sounds a lot harder than it is. Under where your battery tray used to be, there is a bracket that holds your cruise control module (if you have cruise). You’ll need to remove that so you can get to your tank. Don’t remove any cables from the module, just unbolt the bracket and move it up out of the way. Once that’s removed, there is one 10mm bolt that holds the tank to the frame underneath the whole battery tray area. You’ll need your extension again for this one. After you take that out, your tank will drop. Trust me, there are no moving parts in the way of the tank below itself, so you don’t have to worry about the thing getting chewed up by the fan. Remove the stock antifreeze line from the tank and the radiator, and then drop the tank down until the cap is level with the battery tray area. (You might want to get to this one day, so don’t hide the thing.) Once it is in place, grab some tie wraps and find a few good places to strap the tank to. I strapped one around the neck of the tank and one through the bolthole in the side of the tank. It’s up to you where to strap it. Once you’ve done that, double check yourself to make absolutely sure it’s secure and not going to rub anything. Now attach your new longer hose to the radiator, and run it down to the tank. Simple huh?

Step Ten: Install Pipe

Easy step: Set the pipe in the hole, put the hose clamps on the reducer, attach the reducer to the throttlebody, and tighten down the clamps. The next step is to put your O2 sensor back in. It may be difficult to put in, but you don’t want the thing sliding out and causing problems. If you have your oil breather handy, you can snug it down on that other hole in the top of your intake. It looks better than sticking a bolt in the hole, and it will function. Now you might notice that the pipe bends a little at the joint. I used that curve that I cut off the intake to support mine until I could make a sturdier brace for it. One option I’m looking into is getting that new APC water blow off valve. It would eliminate the issue of sucking water into your motor, and may provide a degree of bend that would be useful. Now I’ve brought up the water issue. Everyone asked me what I do when it rains. Running it in the rain is really no big deal. The filter itself will not suck water into the tube unless completely submerged. The only thing you wanna avoid is getting right behind somebody and sucking the water they throw at you, or someone hydroplaning and throwing buckets of water on your filter. And if you’re still paranoid about it, grab some masking tape and keep it in your car. You can always tape up the hole until the storm passes. I keep some in my car for when I’m washing it. I just stick some pieces over the top of the filter where it sticks out a little, and some on the inner cone. Email me if you have any more questions about this issue.

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