Chapter 1

Parts and Compatibility

At the end of the chapter I will list a lot of parts that will be needed to perform the conversion. Since I work at a dealership, I get a real decent discount on parts. So you will notice that a considerable number of my parts are new. Also because I don't have any time to get out to the junkyard it was easier to purchase the things I needed so that the fit and feel would be like new. Truth being told a lot of the parts were reasonably priced and were well worth buying new as to used.

The first thing to consider is what transmission to buy and what to look for. There are 2 types of manual transmissions released in the 5th generation Celica, the C-52, and S-53. I recommend buying the S-53 over the C-52, because the S-53 is the performance option transmission. The S-53 has tighter clearances internally and is heavily built. The S-53 uses ATF for lubricant instead of gear oil, because gear oil can't get into the tighter areas. The easiest way to tell the two apart when shopping at the junkyard is, the S-53 has the shift cable holders cast onto the transmission near the speedometer cable, and the C-52 has a bracket that bolts onto the transmission. One way to remember the two apart is "C" is for commuter and "S" is for sport.

If I had limited budget to work with I wouldn't skimp on the transmission, after all this is the focal point of the conversion. Most yards don't have different prices on the two transmissions but if they do go for the better one, you won't be sorry.
When I bought my shifter cables (new) the computer stated S-53 so there may be a difference in the cables from the C and S types.
Good news now, your axles and starter will work without any modification. There are holes in the floorboard already for the cables, so that means less cutting and easier installation. There are hangers on the firewall for the brake lines that have an extra space for the clutch line.
When at the junkyard there are a few things to pick up for the conversion.

• First is the transmission mount, they are different and won't interchange.
• Second is the reverse light switch connector, from on top of the transmission. You need to snag the wire connector and about 6 inches of wire for the wiring work in the last chapter.
• Third is for those of you who have cruise control and want it to still function after the conversion is finished. Get the cruise cancel switch from the pedal bracket. That is if you don't get the bracket used.
  

Parts List

With part number when available